6.00 on Friday morning. ‘Come amongst the kelp’ and the huge wave crawling ferociously. You see the wave coming from far away and although your friend is scared and goes back, you paddle furiously into the swell of the majestic brooding of the wave and duck under the emerald lift before the wave’s top folds and froths and then you stand up on your board and ride the elements for as long as you can before your wavesteed slows down and then, still standing, the wave deposits you on the beach. The sheer wonder of it.
Then off you are again, bobbing over rumpled water, watching and waiting for the seventh wave to call you to it, not knowing whether or when the wave will chose to carry you or not and then before you are too tired, when the storm clouds warn you to leave right now, you return to the beach to a towel and a hot cup of cocoa, ready for the rest of the day.